One reason I like shaft driven bikes is that the drive train doesn’t need a whole lot of maintenance, much less than chains. 1.8 MB Views: 118. Unread post This item is getting hard to find in Honda .One tube will last a long time, a little bit goes a long way! V Star 650 Spline Lube By Lynx, on May 20th, 2010 One of the drawbacks to owning a shaft driven bike is that if your final drive fails it is EXPENSIVE! Some older bikes need the actual wires replaced. You can just make out a bit of wear on the load bearing sides of the splines but otherwise these are in nearly brand new condition. Now is a good time to clean off all the gunk and brake dust out of your hubs and shine up your wheels while you have easy access! A little bit will do it, I use a toothbrush to apply ( 3 spline ends and 3 coupling ends). My V Star 650 Wont Start! I’ve seen other brands final drive splines well over 100K miles that still look pretty much like brand new. Too much dielectric grease will be as bad for the connections as not having any. VIDEO !!! Unread post I’ve not had to replace these yet so I’m not sure whether they need to be pressed in or not, if so any shop could do it for you cheaply if you brought in the pieces. ... Spline Lube Procedure, with photos, R/R Relocation and Coil Mod Rusty Tank Cleaning! VIDEO !!! How much grease do you put on each lube point? Great condition. 99 There's a few spots to lube, 2 obvious points are end of shaft that goes into transmission area and the ones on wheel hub to "pumpkin". Hub splines, on the other hand, require routine maintenance at EACH rear tire change. Make sure you keep track of which one goes in which hole, this makes the alignment process during reassembly much easier. 2000 V Star XVS650AM motorcycle pdf manual download. I once saw a website with the 650's differential dry coupling failures and had some good pix, but i couldn't find it tonight for this post. TIP: If you dont have money to spring for a real bike lift you can easily make due with a wooden poor mans bike lift like this. Thank You, 2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4, 09 Yamaha Tmax, 08 Suzuki King Quad 750. heh, lubing a shaft spine... Arent the ends sumerged in gear oil much like the diffrential on a car? I did not have a torque wrench when I replaced my flat rear tire, and tightened them by feel. On a V Star 650 there are several sets of splines that need to be lubed with a high moly content grease. Getting ready to do this for the first time. When I take the final gear box apart to re-grease and check the splines, are there any gaskets I might wreck in the process? I’ve thoroughly cleaned off any existing grease on these parts and put on new Honda Moly 60 paste. Anybody that works on motorcycles and atv's for a living will tell you 90% of all electricial problems are caused by or traced to a corrioded or weak elecricial connector inside one or all of the electrical connector plugs and newer bikes with a ecu and fuel injection use a can buss and a insulated ground system but thats complicated I will explain how that works another time. I have a question and a suggestion: And it seemed to be comeing from the dust boot at the time. by roscowgo » Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:07 am, #9 Electrical Fault Finding Flowchart SEAFOAM JUNKIE! So, if you don’t have a torque wrench (or you are in a situation like mine where you cold not get the bike to the shop due to a flat), have the final drive system torqued by a shop as soon as possible. follow these steps to properly align the drive. These are the problem splines right here. Hi buddy, Thank you so much. I never seen a shaft spline where the real wheel connects to the shaft drive differential, maybe you did and I believe you if you did, what I see is the connection between the rear wheel and the hub is rubber or hard plastic male and female blocks shaped like triangles that fit tightly together. Keep doing that, adding more lumber until you have the height you want. Be sure not to get any of that on your skin, it wont come off. The system is similar to a car and I never heard of a car needing a clutch spine lube. I'll stick to the one subject, drive shaft splines. I had to replace my final drive at 34K. With an 8000ish mile trip coming up I decided it would be best to check and lube all the splines so I wouldn’t have any surprises and have a catastrophic breakdown 1000’s of miles from home. If you put a bit too much on there it will get liquified and most of it flung off and this creates quite the mess. I’ve updated the post to show what too much grease can do. Road Trip !! Just have yourself or the tech lube it everytime the tire is changed since it has to come off as a whole unit. It goes away fast two days of sitting there’s no sign. Now to remove the rear wheel and drive assembly remove the rear bolts on the fender stay where they attach to the frame. Unread post by MotoF150 » Tue Dec 05, 2006 3:48 am, #7 I took the bike in three times to the dealer but they said nothing was wrong except a dry front seal on the final drive....then one day...I received a link regarding someone's 1100 V-Star whose final drive failed at 16,000km.... no shaft drive driveshaft spline is submerged in the differential gear oil, its a complete sealed system, some splines have a teflon coating but still should be greased anyhow and its very important you must use a "Moly" grease any other grease without any moly base using it is a waste of time. This motorcycle is stock and has no accessories attached. Save Share. THIS REVIEW WAS FOR HONDA MOLY 60 Once again, these are not shaft splines, which rarely give any trouble as long as the original seals were installed correctly at the factory. Then they wonder why the machine wont run right. I’ll certainly be checking everything above. I hate it when people over grease. It took a few tries to get it right where it did not feel as thought the shaft was binding. Live and learn. Apparently the 60 % moly paste isn't available anymore. The splines on this one are well worn also but not near as bad. I used feeler gauge to check the gap and 12 and 6 o’clock positions are couple thousands different and 9 and 3 as well. VIDEO !!! The V-Star 650, first produced in 1998, is Yamaha’s small, entry level cruiser. 11. Paul? View and Download Yamaha V star 1100 owner's manual online. Today, the freebie GT Talera arrived and I mocked it up. Unlike a chain, the only way to fix a final drive failure is with a new one or replacement parts which usually need to be ordered. At least I do. Unread post Luckily mine have plenty of grease on them still after 30,000 miles. Keep up the great work. For years Gold Wing riders have known how great this product is. Unread post If the splines are overlubricated with too much grease it will liquify and most of it gets flung out, I have done it a couple of times. You can then loosen the front ones and lift the whole fender. No success. So it’s been that long at least since the last spline lube… Does all this add up to a maybe or not likely this long into owning it. New Starter Engine Starting 9-Spline Fit For Yamaha XVS650 XVS65 V-Star / Drag Star 650 Classic Custom 1997-2018 FEATURES:-Brand new starter,not a remanufactured or refurbished one with wear and tear.-High-quality magnets or field coils deliver more torque for fast starts,good working condition. by Do it yourself Motorcycle repairs 2 years ago 3 minutes, 37 seconds 19,975 views This is a must do spline lube on ALL , Yamaha V Star , 650 models and years... it can potentially save you hundreds of $$$ Well since you have the wheel already off, you might as well lube those darn splines. Unread post VIDEO !!! by paul246 » Wed Dec 06, 2006 5:41 pm, #11 BRAVO!!!! Can't remember the brand. However when the bike is on it the whole weight of the bike is on the pipe pushing out and trying to bend the board in half lengthwise. Be sure to clean and regrease the hub splines too! I didn’t know if the reamer would be good for anything, but I tucked it away in the basement. When it says 1 full stroke of grease they think OH GOODY IM GONNA DO 6 FULL STROKES. Spline Lubricants. Next just follow the steps in reverse to reassemble and put back on the bike. I have a new to me black vstar 650 classic and she is a beauty to me and sweet as can be. 650 Posts #2 • Jun 19, 2006. by storysunfolding » Tue Dec 05, 2006 3:37 pm, #10 The suggestion is this: The first time mine went out the splines on the coupler and rear shaft were dust, and NO lub anywhere near them. Don't just wait until teeth are gone splines go faster. V star 1100 motorcycle pdf manual download. I’m not much of a mechanic so I can’t say for sure gear oil, but some was def clear that wasn’t mixed with dirt. A full tube is 10 to 12 bucks and will probably last the rest of your life though. Thanks, I just bought the supply’s for the poor mans jack hopefully will start pulling stuff apart tomorrow night. Or perhaps these couple thousands off is not a big deal. That does not mean they need 0 maintenance, however. My valves never came out of spec in those miles. All the V Star 650 owners PLEASE WATCH THIS 3 min. This is my first bike and I’ve had it about a year, put about 3500 miles on it. Save Share. by MotoF150 » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:43 pm, #2 I did everything as instructed. Honda Lube 60 is a great high ratio Moly Lube, perfect for BMW Motorcycle Drive Splines. There is no gaskets in the part that I showed in this post, it is all dry there is no liquid lubrication which is the reason why we have to do this extra maintenance to begin with. There is not enough grease from the factory and it will strip out. You are bidding on a 2006 Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom motorcycle. It is very solid, and an accidental nudge from any direction won’t knock it all down. You may see some wear after high mileage but with proper care it’ll be very minimal. Hope you took the time to lube the splines on your FD. This don't apply to the members of this forum who hate my guts, don't lube ur shaft spline or use di-electric grease on the electricial system on ur bike. I’m going to change my rear tire and re-lube my 17,000 V-Star 650 next week. To make matters worse, if it drips into somewhere it shouldn't be, you're in for an expensive repair. At Yamaha Sports Plaza located in Portland we specialize in Yamaha parts and Suzuki Parts and the full … Reassemble and use a torque wrench to tighten everything down properly. You need Honda moly 60 lube and it’s so overlooked on those it’s must to do . Then, I took it to my mechanic to make sure that all of the bolts on the final drive housing and axle were torqued properly. Unread post Mingting Chrome Sissy Bar Luggage Rack Bracket for Yamaha VStar 400 V Star 650 V-Star 1100 Classic XVS Dragstar XVS 1100 (2000-2011) 4.1 out of 5 stars 26 $65.99 $ 65 . Once all the splines are gone the drive shaft will just spin without budging the rear wheel. The cover in front of the diff will have to come off to lube. Perfect commuter bike or entry level unit. Serendipity. That is one bad way to end a road trip. Free shipping. Unread post Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. I don’t know if it will hold up or not because it WILL come off the skin. The splines are case hardened steel and mesh (male to female) within the hub and ARE NOT immersed in the final drive fluid. Really thick, heavy, jet-black stuff in a jar with a brush in the lid. Also for: Xvs1100, Xvs1100a. I could feel the clutch lever getting harder to disengage whenever the spline would begin to dry up. What would be a likely leak spot for gear oil? Lube that, the splines that go to the engine and the hub splines. This is true for all shaft drive bikes, regardless of brand. I have a 04′ vstar custom around 12k miles on it, this past weekend I noticed some gear oil showing up on my rear tire, I’m not able to figure out the exact leak location, but it seemed like it was comeing from the dust boot around my drive shaft. Unread post 22 Years. The one with an X next to it is the one that seems more prone to failure, notice that it can’t be bought separately. Unread post There is no such thing as a bad motorcycle. I used to have a BMW K75s and I never understood why the friction plate of the clutch periodically needed greasing. It is the shaft from the engine to the differential. Or both. The lubing of the splines is a carry-over from the 1100s and the 1150 boxers, where they had some very serious issues with spline mechanical failures, and without getting into the details, the solution to avoid those failures was to regularly lube the splines. I torqued all bolts and nuts in a proper sequence but my hub is still misaligned. The rubber or plastic parts that you are referring to are thrust dampers. The labor charge will be less than the cost of a new rear end. Note how the moly paste has been slung outward via centrifugal force, most likely because the rubber o-rings were not replaced at each tire change. Easy to do yourself and cheap to have a technician do it, just make sure its done and done correctly. Tightening the front bolts back down should hold it, some people recommend bracing it with something but I’ve never had a problem with the fender falling. Any Input would be great. Does it mean I will need to shim the 4 bolts in order to have a perfect gap. This is great. 52 years of Motorcycle Guides ∙ Reviews ∙ The friendliest motorcycle community on the internet! This makes my laminate solution crack and pop every time I levered the bike up or down, I think a solid board now would have been better. I managed to replace the final drive and lube it. Then I get astride the bike and tilt it about 45 degrees so my helper can shove another 2×6 under the framing pipe on the high side. Using my allen wrench, I pulled the 3 bolts from the outer cover and removed it. I repeated the whole process several times. The 650 V-star is a popular mid-size motorcycle that is fun to ride everyday. Went to the Honda shop and picked up a jar of moly 'assembly lube'. 2011 BMW R1200RT 2007 V Star 1300 - Sold 2007 V Star 650 - Sold 1978 Suzuki TS 125 - Sold Hillary For Prison! However, properly maintained they should last the life of your motorcycle. Unread post The cover in front of the diff will have to come off to lube. V Star 650 pickup coil and stator replacement, Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window), Click to share on Google+ (Opens in new window). Yamaha had issued a tec update that states everytime the rear wheal is off this should be done! It doesn’t matter now because I was finally able to save up and get a harbor freight bike lift, although that has its own challenges because the bottom of the engine hangs below the frame rails and the bike will not sit flat on a lift and really has to be tied down and secured to prevent wobbling and falling off. Wow! door Do it yourself Motorcycle repairs 2 jaar geleden 3 minuten en 37 seconden 19.975 weergaven This is a must do spline lube on ALL Yamaha , V Star 650 , models and years... it can potentially save you hundreds of $$$ If the splines are left dry for too long they could wind up looking like this. von Do it yourself Motorcycle repairs vor 2 Jahren 3 Minuten, 37 Sekunden 20.553 Aufrufe This is a must do spline lube on ALL , Yamaha V Star 650 , models and years... it can potentially save you hundreds of $$$ by Ninja Geoff » Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:46 pm, #3 The one thing I couldn’t properly mock up was the seatpost, because the GT Talera uses a … All the V Star 650 owners PLEASE WATCH THIS 3 min. v star 650 final drive noise I have a 03 v star 650 classic, 9000 miles. Paul, a couple thousands is no big deal. Reply. by ofblong » Tue Dec 05, 2006 3:55 am, #8 $107.71. If it is oil then it could be coming from either of the seals, there is one in the front where the drive shaft connects and one on the side where the hub connects. I think zootech mentioned something quite a while ago about a nylon insert or something similar that would prevent the need to lube those splines every time you change the wheel. The V-Star 650's due in fact need the shaft splines greased. Globbed it on the spline, brushed a light coat all the way down the shaft and re-assembled. Check the gap between the hub and the wheel at the 6:00, 12:00, 3:00 and 9:00 positions, it should be even all the way around. Plus the gear oil had a more yellow tint than the fluid I found that was clear. Thats a nice bike, ur Honda 650, I love that bike! by blues2cruise » Tue Dec 05, 2006 2:01 am, #6 In response to a comment I’m updating this post to show what happens if you over lubricate the splines. The wiring harness on my xz550 was completely redone and I'm seeing much strong charges and better starts. View and Download Yamaha 2000 V Star XVS650AM owner's manual online. Other than that a very tough bike and reliable . Thanks. You just need a little bit of Moly grease, just enough to coat the surface. All the V Star 650 owners PLEASE WATCH THIS 3 min. Heres some pics I had of when I put too much grease. Whenever I’ve done this everything aligns perfectly. Paul? The V-Star 650 has a 2-part decorative cover over the oil filter housing, and both pieces need to be removed separately to access the filter. All the V Star 650 owners PLEASE WATCH THIS 3 min. Just have yourself or the tech lube it everytime the tire is changed since it has to come off as a whole unit. The V-Star 650's due in fact need the shaft splines greased. Another example of what could happen if these parts are not maintained. These were just about gone, I’m amazed they still worked at all. how hard would it be to drill a pilot hole and install and grease fitting not the best for look but better then having to strip everything everytime you have to work on it. Thanks for the photos you added, I can say that what I saw was similar in appearance but not even half the amount so you may have hit the head on the nail. This is a real issue: ask any BMW rider, or any old-time ST1100 or GL high mileage type, and you'll likely get a whole lecture about spline … There is not enough grease from the factory and it will strip out. Also if it is a visible misalignment what works best for me is to loosen the axle bolts and give a good shove to make sure the axle is all the way forward on both sides then snug up the axle so it won’t move and then do the final drive bolts and lastly torque the axle. Side note, I built the poor man jack, and worked great to hold the bike, how the heck did you get it up on it by yourself I had a buddy come over and slide the wood in place as I lifted from the back wheel lol. Mama Yamaha has gotten better about greasing these properly from the factory on later model bikes. I took it off to see if it had grease. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [img]http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3563/41350009.jpg[/img]. Lock two combination wrenches together for more leverage. Thank you for the indepth post on spline lube. Honda Moly 60 paste, pn 08734-0001 at your Honda dealer, Cut and past from above link: While Mobile Synth lube is okay and appears to match the slight hint of lube used by the factory, Honda Moly 60 Paste is the preferred choice. Ride safe and remember: Shiny side up! Your red grease will probably be fine but order some of the good stuff to have on hand for next time. It doesn't matter what you use drain oil,wd-40,chain lube.lard,surf board wax. It's not like you change your tire everyday, [img]http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/logitech104/fairyhugsig.jpg[/img]. I’m hoping my new to me BMW’s splines still look good when I tear it apart this spring with 87K miles or that’ll be an expensive headache. I would like to reiterate Lynx’s comment of July 8, 2015 about torquing the axle (and other bolts). Properly maintained hub splines will last the life of the bike and then some. Drive Shaft Spline Maintenance. does anyone know where I can get a step by step on how to disassemble the final drive system for my 2001 Yamaha v-star 650???? I believe the factory recommended a clutch spline lube every 30K miles. Were you speaking of the wheel splines, or taking off the final drive to access driveshaft splines? by LikaComet » Sun Dec 10, 2006 7:36 pm, #16 All the V Star 650 owners PLEASE WATCH THIS 3 min. I wonder about just normal wear and how my habit of using the clutch to aid braking added to the wear. by Social Distortion » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:27 pm, #5 by logitech104 » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:38 pm, #15 Its lightweight but powerful design makes it a versatile and fun bike to jet around town. It is the shaft from the engine to the differential. Another more expensive alternative that works well is Krytox. No problemo. You really have a way with writing. I have run in to dealers who say you do not need to do this. The V Star 1100's differential fortunately is different in that it has a hole in there that allows rear differential oil to lube the drive shaft to pinion shaft coupling. Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by ben2go, Jul 21, 2013.